Essay
Return

Return

El regreso

Adriana Díaz Enciso

Return, by Adriana Díaz Enciso

***

Among the avalanche of images and words that testify to a world racked by violence, uncertainty, multiple forms of madness and all the imaginable faces of danger as the year came to a close, those no less ominous bred by our conjectures stuck their head out: how much worse things can get as soon as 2025 gets going, with the return of a certain individual to the presidency of the United States.

An empire’s decadence has never been clearer than in Donald Trump’s accession to power, first in 2017, and for the second time this January. Those of us who haven’t yet lost our mind completely writhe between the sensation that what we’re witnessing is impossible, delirium, hallucination, and the suspicion that we couldn’t expect otherwise. The empire’s decadence was already well under way by the time I arrived in this planet, 60 years ago, and most nations have done all they can to ignore it. Because it’s the most powerful country, perhaps; because whatever pertaining to that empire that touches us all includes its decadence, and it is difficult to detach ourselves from what we are; out of convenience, out of indolence, out of impotence, and we could spend the whole day enumerating the reasons, which have already been, and still are, minutely examined by thinkers and analysts.

Now, the only thing we know for sure is that the unthinkable has happened again, even though this time it was even more unthinkable than eight years ago, and that once more the said individual won the elections. After the initial shock (the fear, anger and dejection), what can we do?

It goes without saying that I’m not a political analyst. As I have acknowledged when I’ve written about other current affairs, there is little I can add to the experts’ haemorrhage of words brooding over this and other painful matters. I have, however, a public voice, and I’m fortunate to have spaces where it can be heard, such as these virtual pages, for the existence and generosity of which I’m deeply grateful. As an inhabitant of this planet, I see what happens to us—from the standpoint of imperfect objectivity that is the fruit of closeness; it’s not easy to judge our own times—and I ponder; I think that I have the obligation to affect, in my humble measure and by the means in my power the construction of a better world. That is, a better present and a better future. Since the only means I’ve ever had any power on are words, I write.

However, there are moments when it’s arduous to know what to write, because we must first find out what we think. That this man will be the president, second time over and more emboldened, of the most powerful nation in the world, with all the threats this entails and that we can’t stop listing, stirs in me the urge to run away as fast as I can (but where to?) rather than the equanimity necessary for a coherent reflection.

I’ve written before in these pages about other recent elections: those in Mexico, where I was born, and those in the United Kingdom, the country where I live. It seemed important to me then to contribute whatever I could to collective reflection, but I also voted in both elections—and this matters—thus fulfilling my most elementary duty as a citizen. In the American elections, though most of us in the planet are often very worried, or terrified, with the exception of that country’s population, we cannot vote. We’re only witnesses, and the sense of impotence is undoubtedly abysmal.

I wonder then whether this is a good opportunity to calibrate the balance between the public and the intimate voice, and listen carefully to what the latter has to say.

On the 6th of November, when the results of the American elections reached the United Kingdom, I was in Tynemouth, a tiny town facing the North Sea. The bed and breakfast was almost across the priory and castle, imponent in the manner of every ruin of past grandeur—offering to the human gaze the mirage of their ancient majesty, and the even more imperious dominion of time, that strips everything away.

Two thousand years of history have left their mark in Tynemouth’s headland, but the ruins that we now see go mostly back to the Middle Ages. The priory was then protected with fortifications, like a castle, and after the Dissolution of the Monasteries at Henry the VIII’s rapacious hands, given its strategic position on the river Tyne’s mouth, the headland remained as a fortress up to 1956. Now it is a historic site preserved by English Heritage; that is to say, it has become, mostly, a tourist attraction, a probably even more devastating fate, given the erosion of meaning, than the progress of time itself. It is still an image of haunting beauty, day or night.

The Romans were there, and there are traces of an Iron Age settlement. We know of two kings of Northumbria who are (perhaps) buried there, Oswine and Osred II, from the 7th and 8th centuries respectively. Osred probably sponsored the first monastery, which suffered multiple foreign raids during the 9th century, when it finally succumbed. There’s nothing intelligible left of it beyond a few Anglo-Saxon crosses discovered on the grounds, which must be now in some museum. A monk called Turchil founded a new monastery in the 11th century, which then became part of a priory subordinate to St Albans, also fortified. During the following centuries the priory prospered, despite the many intrigues and political setbacks. It acquired more land and built what we assume must have been splendid constructions. Nevertheless, it was cold, perched as it was on top of the cliff, and some say that, because of that, it was also the destination of rebel monks who were sent there as a punishment.

The constant threat of a war with Scotland meant that throughout the Middle Ages Tynemouth was continually garrisoned. Kings came and went, all of them keen on strengthening the priory’s fortifications, and in the 14th century the gatehouse was built, as solid as a castle’s. Its skeleton is still standing, though now fragile, along some of the walls. Monastic life in Tynemouth ended in 1539, a victim, as mentioned above, of the Dissolution of the Monasteries, and King St Oswine’s shrine was destroyed. The priory gave way to a military base as a strategic site during yet another war with Scotland, a result of Henry the VIII’s failed attempt to force the marriage between his six-year-old son Edward and six-month-old Mary Stuart, Queen of Scotland. Later, in the 17th century, the fortifications served the Royalist cause during the Civil Wars, until Tynemouth succumbed to the Parliamentary forces in the Battle of Marston Moor, and they became useful again during the early 19th century, as arsenal and defence during the threat of a Napoleonic invasion. They stood throughout that century, protecting the river’s mouth. They were also an important military and defence base in the 20th Century, during the two World Wars.

In 1956 the army finally came out of Tynemouth (but it may come back, some army of this or that faction, in unfathomable times to come), and many of the new military buildings were dismantled in order to exhibit the priory and castle’s ruins as a historic monument. Namely, as that mirage I was talking about at the beginning of these notes, shimmering in the light, of something that was and is no more.

And that is why I’m telling you, in a nutshell, this whole story about some ruins on some headland on the North Sea. So that we wonder whatever became of all the illustrious, infamous or anonymous people who were part of that story, and how through the centuries the resonance of all those events gradually dissolved, though, at the time, they were considered as utterly and vitally important.

On the morning of November the 6th, 2024, as I was saying, I was in Tynemouth. I saw the ruins only from outside, walking around them, since the site had just been closed for the winter season. Like that, visible but inaccessible, they were much more present and, at the same time, more ghostly. I refused to read the news. Later I would, inevitably, get to know the results of the American elections, but I didn’t want to ruin the day. B. and I went for a walk down the beach, all the way to Cullercoats, a nearby town. A languid pressure front had overcast the sky for several days, but that morning the sun broke surreptitiously through the clouds. It didn’t show its face overtly, but it opened up shifting pools of golden light on the sand.

Through the whole morning I forgot about any threat; I forgot about Trump, about politics, about all politicians. The only reality was our walk on the beach, in that light, in that subtle breeze and the cold; the other people walking with their countless dogs; the rocks and the sea, with its murmur. Later, on our way back to Tynemouth, anxiety returned for an instant: who had won the elections?, I wondered, and I didn’t want to even formulate the question out loud. Still, I wondered in silence—if the worst had happened (and it had), what could a Mexican writer in England do to stop a dangerous madman, invested with power as the president of the United States, from wrecking the planet. The answer was, as it was to be expected: less than nothing.

I then saw in the distance the silhouette of the priory’s ruins. I thought of those kings, whose names have been forgotten by almost everybody; of their remains, once buried there, though it isn’t at all clear to me whether they’re still there or their very dust has been lost. I thought of the wars, the cannons’ smoke, the searchlights, and much earlier, the monks’ prayers, a now unintelligible whisper that has long ago blended with the sea’s. One day, Donald Trump’s remains will be contained in what, it’s only to be expected, will be a rather golden, gaudy mausoleum in extremely bad taste, but the day will also come when nothing will remain of that mausoleum, and no one will know the whereabouts of those bones. The same, it goes without saying (with the exception, thank goodness, of the mausoleum) will happen with the bones and dust of all of us. Right now, a large part of this planet’s inhabitants is depressed, stunned and terrified, and with good reason. And this, too, shall pass.

That November day, on the beach, I thought it was necessary—pressing, in fact—to formulate a deeper question. How can we face with dignity and courage the moment in history that, most randomly, has been our lot to live in? And how do we face our transience? How, without losing a fundamental form of faith in life? Which, at that moment, took in me the form (it’s hard to explain) of faith in the reality of our steps on the beach, of the sand dancing in the wind, of that strangely gilded light, of the sea, of our joy, of B. alive beside me and I, alive too, awake. Because all that was real too, bearing the same dose of reality once held in every single moment lived by the innumerable actors involved in Tynemouth’s history and the builders of those imposing constructions, of which nothing is left now but ruins.

  To scan through the papers suffices to feel the Apocalypse breath on our neck, and there is no doubt that what Trump contributes to that breath is one of its most stinking components. As citizens, and as inhabitants of our time, we must do what we can to straighten the course of our cracked ship. The intimate question and gaze aren’t equivalent to escapism, nor to forget our responsibility as political beings. But they do help us (or force us, depending on how you look at it) to remember that the political dimension of our existence isn’t the only one; that in the human journey there are terrible moments, catastrophes about which there is very little we can do, and yet life still holds an inalienable worth. That is why we need to learn to face it, and then celebrate it.

The last 6th of November I realized that nothing justifies squandering our life thinking obsessively of the monstrosity of a dangerous, vulgar and outlandish man with orange skin. Let us be alert, by all means; fight as we can, and let us lament whatever there is to lament. But let’s not forget to tread firmly on the sand, stare at the sea.

May the year be good to all of you.

*Foto de Marco Zuppone en Unsplash

Adriana Díaz-Enciso es poeta, narradora y traductora. Ha publicado las novelas La sedPuente del cieloOdio y Ciudad doliente de Dios, inspirada en los Poemas proféticos de William Blake; los libros de relatos Cuentos de fantasmas y otras mentiras y Con tu corazón y otros cuentos, y seis libros de poesía. Su más reciente publicación, Flint (una elegía y diario de sueños, escrita en inglés) puede encontrarse aquí.

©Literal Publishing. Queda prohibida la reproducción total o parcial de esta publicación. Toda forma de utilización no autorizada será perseguida con lo establecido en la ley federal del derecho de autor.

Las opiniones expresadas por nuestros colaboradores y columnistas son responsabilidad de sus autores y no reflejan necesariamente los puntos de vista de esta revista ni de sus editores, aunque sí refrendamos y respaldamos su derecho a expresarlas en toda su pluralidad. / Our contributors and columnists are solely responsible for the opinions expressed here, which do not necessarily reflect the point of view of this magazine or its editors. However, we do reaffirm and support their right to voice said opinions with full plurality.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *